Mini guide to Buenos Aires

Russian Orthodox Church of the Holy Trinity in Buenos Aires
Parque Lezama, Buenos Aires with the Russian orthodox church of the Holy Trinity in the background.

In 2017, I was able to live for 3 months in Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, also known as “the Paris of South America” (with broad avenues and some nice architecture, parks…) Here is this gringo's mini guide:

Argentina's version of the bbq.
La Boca
The famous football team and stadium. Tourist will almost always pay way too much for a ticket. The neighborhood has a couple very touristy blocks but most streets feel definitely less safe. Some very impressive street art to be found.
Most porteños don't speak very much english and have their own Spanish. Tu eres becomes vos sos (no need to speak formal in most occasions). Both the ll and y is pronounced as sh so it's sho como posho (yo como pollo).
Dulce the leche
literally: the sweetness of milk or simply caramelized milk. Used in all kind of deserts (ice cream!) or even as a bread spread. A national addiction.
A bit like a miniature calzone but usually with ground beef, chicken or vegetables/potatoes. You can find these delicious snacks everywhere and I absolutely love them.
Rather offensive term for a (white) person not from Latin America (latino/latina) neither from Spain/Portugal. The females of the species are called gringas.
The national caffeinated drink that every Argentinian seems to be addicted to. To me, it tastes like a very intense but not unpleasant green tea. It's usually drunken from a cup with a steel straw but can also be drunken as a tea. Nice way to share and get to know some people.
Trendy neighborhood where you'll find plenty of street art (some commercial from stores and company's like Netflix) as well as restaurants, bars, clubs and shops. The neighborhood feels very livable since most buildings only have up to 3 floors and there are trees everywhere.
Puerto Madero
This renewed area around the marina is a nice place to go for a walk. Make sure to check out the reserva ecologica. Afterwards, head to one of the many stands facing the water for a choripan
One of the most expensive neighborhoods with beautiful architecture, parks and some exclusive hotels.
San Telmo
This bohemian neighborhood is one of my favorites with lots of street art, cool architecture, bars, restaurants and the (tourist) market. Most hostels are located here.
There is no way around it. Buenos Aires = tango. Milongueros come from all over the world to dance until the wee hours of night. In San Telmo, you'll find the most milongas but almost everywhere, you can find locals practicing their steps.
Offensive name for someone from the United States. If you feel insulted, simply say you're from America. This way, you can both feel insulted :)


Next post: Street Art in Buenos Aires